Afloat magazine (Australia) - May 09
Last year in August, we hired a 57 foot narrow boat from the Black Prince Company to spend a week on the Union, and Forth and Clyde Canals in Scotland.
We picked the boat up at the Falkirk Wheel which is situated at Bonnybridge about 30 miles from Edinburgh and about halfway between Glasgow and Edinburgh. As we have come to expect from the Black Prince mob, the boat was immaculate and the handover painless.
We entered the locks before the wheel and while waiting for the gondola to be made ready for us, we had time to take in the amazing engineering feat that is the Falkirk Wheel. The only rotating boat lift in the world, it is 35 metres high with two opposing arms that look like a double headed axe. It rotates 180 degrees in five minutes and takes about the same energy as boiling six kettles.
It is kept balanced by ye olde Archimedes principle – something about floating objects displacing their own weight in water. I was more anxious that the 15,000 bolts had been checked recently. This fusion of industrial art and engineering innovation, opened in 2002, now links the Union Canal with the Forth and Clyde canal where the height difference is 115 feet.
I have to say that for someone who isn't all that chipper about heights, the whole rotation is so smooth you only realize you are moving slowly sideways and gradually up when you suddenly see the bonny hills of Scotland.
It looks more spectacular from ground level where you can see the entire rotation, as evidenced by the camera wielding visitors to the Falkirk Visitors Centre. You can get a ticket to ride the Wheel on a tourist boat for about eight pounds.
The British Waterways staff were wonderful, so calm and helpful, if a little parochial. When I said we were heading into Edinburgh, one of the lock keepers warned me “be careful hen, they're noo civilized doon there”.
On leaving the Wheel, you pass through a 145 metre tunnel that passes under the Roman Antonine Wall and two locks later, you are off on the lockless Union canal to Edinburgh. The Union canal is lovely and we were surprised at the lack of traffic. We found one secure overnight stop called Secret Harbour and it was so secretive, we were the only ones there.
Of note on the canal are the three aqueducts, the biggest of which is the Avon, and the villages of Linlithgow and Ratho.
The canal takes you over valley sand through hills where local wildlife abounds – from deer to foxes, herons to swans and even the odd hawk.
Well, that is what the book said, the only real wildlife we encountered were some local lads out on a boat for a Stag weekend dressed in various Braveheart attire seeing who could re-enact the movie the loudest.
Enjoyed lunch at the Four Marys pub in Linlithgow after deciding against the Auld Hole in Wall because it was full of Celtic football supporters (not that there is anything wrong with that), just busy.
Linlithgow is also great to stock up on food, with a supermarket in easy walking distance. 
The mooring and service facilities for boating on these two canals are all first class and FREE.
After BW staff opened the pedestrian bridge, we moored at Edinburgh Quay which is very much in the centre and about a 15 minute walk to the Royal Mile and Edinburgh Castle. We had a few days in Edinburgh mainly to see the Military Tattoo at the Castle and the odd Fringe Festival event.
I spent a worthwhile 10 pounds on a wonderful show called Sushi Tap, a comedy starring three Japanese tap dancers. The atmosphere at the Castle to witness the Tattoo was amazing, even in the pouring rain. Edinburgh is always busy (and expensive) in August and the boat probably ended up being a cheaper option than finding accommodation in the city.
Conscious of the week getting away from us and with some dry clothes at last, we cruised back to the Falkirk Wheel and onto the Forth and Clyde Canal. Coming down the Wheel, we watched the hills disappear and were very relaxed, us now being old hands at coming in and out of the giant elevator. Time did get the better of us and we had little of it to cruise to Glasgow, only as far as Auchinstarry Harbour on the Union canal. We did however find time to visit the Boathouse Inn for some more excellent Scottish salmon.
Fabulous week, put it on your list! The two constants in Scotland are the friendly people with their unique humour and their weather – so don't forget the wet weather gear.
